Walking and Feasting Along the German Waterfront of the Great Lake

Beneath the warm autumn sun, gazing out across the lake, I’m tasting a zesty, refreshing apple-secco. This effervescent aperitif echoes prosecco, but is produced from apples rather than grapes. I nibble a few cinnamon-dusted apple chips, then proceed to the potent stuff: spirit brewed from traditional apple types.

If it wasn't clear, apples are major industry in this region. I’m trekking along the shores of Lake Constance, on Germany’s south border. Nearly 250,000 tonnes of apples are harvested in this territory each year. Our trip aligned with the regular gourmet event, when local producers establish stalls and display their products along 9 miles of the lakeside hiking trail connecting Überlingen, Sipplingen, and Bodman-Ludwigshafen. If apples don't appeal, there’s also pear spritz and spirits produced from everything from plums, cherries, and blackcurrants to Jerusalem artichokes. Travelers can also sample food such as smoked sausages, cheeses, onion tarts, and homemade cakes and pies.

Four Countries – Single Body of Water

Lake Constance’s tourism motto is: “Four countries – one lake”. Germany, Austria, and Switzerland all converge at the lake, while Liechtenstein is just a half-hour drive away. On our short break, we explored only the German portion, but those with additional days could easily visit three or four countries. There is a extensive cycling circuit around the lake, which can be broken into four to eight stages; and week-long foodie, active, and highlights itineraries, all doable using public transport. Special travel passes offer unlimited travel on trains, buses, and ferries, while premium options also include entry to numerous attractions.

Exploring the City

We began our trip in Konstanz, the largest city on the lake. We joined a guided tour to learn about the city’s long history – most notably the Council of Constance of 1414-1418, a series of meetings to address years of schism within the Catholic church – and visit its icons: the council building itself; Imperia, a controversial rotating waterfront statue; the münster and its spire with views over the city, lake, and mountains; and the charming Niederburg district, with its historic alleyways and houses from the late Middle Ages.

While the sun was out, we ate outside by the water at a historic inn in a former officers’ mess. As well as hearty meat dishes such as knuckle of pork and beef roulade, we were pleased to find delicious vegan versions of regional dishes. Maultaschen, usually meat-filled dumplings, were made with plant-based mince and served with potato-based and cucumber salad and vegetable gravy.

We were feeling fatigued when we heard the rousing sound of an oompah band. Moving towards the music, we emerged at a charming mountain inn

When it drizzled, we took shelter in a brewery and restaurant in a medieval building. Alongside its core menu of sausages, schnitzels, and Swabian specialities such as käsespätzle, it serves seasonal dishes. The pumpkin soup with giant pretzels was turning out to be popular; this autumn there is a chanterelle mushroom menu. We tried the malty Copper beer; later in the year, a dark, strong seasonal brew will be offered.

Enjoyment and Activity

After all this enjoyment, it was time to walk to our campsite, nearly 19km around the lake. Just outside the city, we reached welcoming thermal baths, with indoor and outdoor pools, saunas, and steam rooms. We proceeded and passed Mainau, known as the flower island. In September, the dahlias are in full bloom and the katsura trees give off scents of gingerbread and caramel; the arboretum is at its foliage-viewing peak in October.

We left the lake and headed a little way into the countryside, walking through meadows and climbing a couple of hills, before strolling through the lakeside village of Dingelsdorf to the campsite just beyond. The nights were getting chilly, so we were glad to be staying in a cozy sleeping barrel rather than a tent. These wooden structures are allegedly based on historical accommodation – but presumably a lot warmer and cleaner. The campsite has a cafe, sells fresh bread in the mornings, and hosts a market on Fridays. A nearby restaurant serves local dishes plus pizza and pasta, in a modern space with a vaulted ceiling.

Food-Focused Hiking and Beautiful Vistas

The next morning, we took a boat from Dingelsdorf harbor across the lake to Überlingen, a town with a medieval quarter and the longest promenade on the lake. This was the start of our gourmet walk – shorter but more challenging – traversing ravines, forests, and, of course, orchards. A particularly unforgettable stop was at a viewpoint where a winery was serving wine and snacks to accompany the stunning lake panorama.

Beyond Sipplingen, we were starting to tire when we heard the rousing sound of an oompah band. We headed towards the music and emerged at a mountain inn whose sun terrace has views all the way to the Alps. Refreshed by more excellent German beer, it was a short hop to our journey’s end, a lakeside hotel with a heated outdoor pool and saunas—a perfect place to relax after a hike. The restaurant serves pike and char fish alongside pork cheeks and steaks, and more excellent vegetarian options such as panzerotti stuffed with porcini and truffles.

We’d packed a lot in, but there was so much left to see: the island old town of Lindau; the Middle Ages castle at Meersburg; the Zeppelin city of Friedrichshafen. And that’s without even leaving Germany. We’re going to need more apple-secco …